Diamond Setting Guide
Settings are not only meant to secure diamonds in place, but also add visual appeal. For example, a classic prong setting minimizes the appearance of metal so you see more of the diamond. Other settings are specially designed to create dramatic effect by creating an ‘illusion’ that a diamond is larger, and there are also setting types that reflect more light. Learn more about the top setting types here:
The prong setting, which features small metal prongs bent over the girdle of the diamond or gemstone, is one of the most popular setting types. Many prefer this setting type for their engagement ring, stud earrings or tennis bracelet, as it allows for the greatest exposure of the diamond and minimizes the appearance of the metal. This highlights the diamonds and will also allow more light to pass through, which affects the brilliance of the jewelry. Prong settings are designed in a variety of types, which you can view here.
COMMON SHARED PRONG
A common shared prong setting is a variation of the traditional prong setting in which the prongs are wrapped around the crown of more than one stone. This type of setting minimizes the appearance and presence of metal and allows additional light to pass through a diamond or gemstone.
A channel setting refers to a type of stone setting often used in mounting a number of small stones of uniform size in a row. Instead of an individual set of prongs holding each stone, the stones are fitted into a channel and held into place on each side by a continuous strip of metal. This is a popular setting type for diamond rings and tennis bracelets.
A bezel setting is when a diamond is completely surrounded by metal. Primarily known for its clean appearance and sturdiness, this setting style encases the outer edge of the diamond in a fine frame of metal. When set in platinum or white gold, it can make the diamonds appear larger. The bezel setting is often used with round shaped diamonds, but also works well with other diamond shapes.
A semi-bezel setting, or half-bezel setting, is when the diamond is only partially surrounded by the metal setting. This setting type is popular with diamond bands and tennis bracelets.
The pave setting allows light to reflect off the many facets of a diamond. It uses numerous small diamonds set with tiny prongs to create a continuous surface of radiance and shimmer. This setting type is preferred for engagement rings and earrings.
A tension setting refers to a diamond ring setting where the diamond is held in place by pressure rather than with prongs. The gold or platinum setting is actually spring-loaded to exert pressure onto the diamond, and tiny etchings or grooves are added to the gold or platinum in order to create a shelf structure for the diamond's edges to rest. The diamond appears to 'float' or be suspended in the air with nothing holding it in place. It is a secure setting type for a diamond engagement ring or wedding ring.
An illusion is a setting technique patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933. A diamond is placed in a collet (collar) of reflective, highly polished metal that appears to be part of the diamond. This enhances the perceived size of the diamond.
A trellis setting resembles latticework and is constructed of four interweaving prongs that hold a center diamond in place.